Day 34: Dunedin

I figure if Sydney trains offered champagne breakfasts commuting by rail would be a much more appealing prospect.

We took the Taieri Gorge Railway from the docks through Dunedin (pop. 120,000; founded by Scots, it was originally planned to be called “New Edinburgh”, but they decided there were enough “New Whatevers” in the world and went for Dunedin instead - but I digress) and then northwest up to Pukerangi (pop. pretty much nothing).
The best part was the bit in the middle.
Most of the trip was a leisurely 15-25 kph, which allowed plenty of time to take in the views. Most of the rock in the area is schist rock, which is a metamorphic rock made up of minerals like mica and quartz. While this probably sounds rather dull, the effect on the scenery is remarkable, as the river cuts through the schist to reveal a ruggedly beautiful landscape.

It was just… gorge-us.
(Sorry - couldn’t resist.)
The actual train service was a delight as well. The train is staffed entirely by volunteers, presumably local train buffs, and it provides a wonderfully traditional post-colonial experience.

We noted the ship’s captain was on the tour as well. Emma figured this was further insurance that the ship wouldn’t leave without us. Conversely I figured this was probably the best time to date for the crew to stage a mutiny and sail off to parts unknown.
After the train trip we made another trip to Larnach Castle, a rather grand home built by one of New Zealand’s leading families of the 19th century. The house was OK, but more interesting were the gardens, which have been revamped over the last few decades, and the phenomenal views.

The cafe also had great espresso.
Back at port we were told that due to bad weather the captain had decided to cancel the following days cruise to Milford Sound and Fjordland. This led to enormous amounts of bitching and griping from some passengers, although given the forecast was for 10 metre swells Emma and I figured it was a good call. We tend to think not sinking was a reasonable alternative.
Besides, we had had nice coffee at Larnach Castle, so we’d agree to almost anything at that point.